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MikStim
Tied by Wally Lutz |
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Tail: 20 to 30 pieces Elk or Deer hair (dyed or natural), shank length
and stack the hair. Tension on the thread should be very near the
breaking point so that the hair fans out as much as possible here.
Middle Wing: 20 to 30 pieces Elk or Deer hair set in middle of body.
Wing length is just a little shorter than the tail. Thread tension is
important for making the hair lay along the hook shank. Start with
tension near the breaking point for the thread your using an
Front wing: 20 to 30 pieces Elk or Deer hair set just behind the eye and
clip the butts to protrude out over the eye of the hook. Wing length is
about 3/4 of middle wing. Here again we need the hair to lay with a
lower profile. Leave a space behind the eye of the hoo
Hook: any size that matches your sample, or I like #10 or 12 3x
Thread: match body colour or use invisible sewing thread.
Body: shades of grey wool mixed with some grey sparkle yarn. Body is
dubbed in between tail and each wing position.
Hackle: Two dun hackles. Both are tyed in at the same place the tail is.
The hackle is left till last and then palmered between the wings to the
head of the fly. One is wrapped counter clockwise and then the other is
wrapped clock wise (criss-cross each other).
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| Tying Instructions |
The MikStim is a blending of the 'Mitch's Sedge' Arthur Mikulak and Randall Kaufman's 'Stimulator'. Used it this
past August in Montana on the Gallatin, Yellowstone and tributaries for
Cutthroat, Browns and Rainbows. Yellowstone Park fish (Madison Browns &
Rainbows) were unfamiliar with this fly and made me look good too. It
took a seven pound resident rainbow on the Babine, among others, and it
produces well back at home also.
MikStim a.k.a. Nobrainer
- Hook: any size that matches your sample, or I like #10 or 12 3x
- Thread: match body colour or use invisible sewing thread.
- Tail: 20 to 30 pieces Elk or Deer hair (dyed or natural), shank length
and stack the hair. Tension on the thread should be very near the
breaking point so that the hair fans out as much as possible here.
- Hackle: Two dun hackles. Both are tyed in at the same place the tail is.
The hackle is left till last and then palmered between the wings to the
head of the fly. One is wrapped counter clockwise and then the other is
wrapped clock wise (criss-cross each other). This is to prevent leader
twist during casting. Very important because without the second counter
wound hackle it will spin. Also the hackle should be sized to around the
hook gape in order to present a lower profile.
- Body: shades of grey wool mixed with some grey sparkle yarn. Body is
dubbed in between tail and each wing position.
- Middle wing: 20 to 30 pieces Elk or Deer hair set in middle of body.
Wing length is just a little shorter than the tail. Thread tension is
important for making the hair lay along the hook shank. Start with
tension near the breaking point for the thread your using and as you
wrap back on the hair ease off. This then allows the hair to lay down
instead of fanning out like the tail.
- Front wing: 20 to 30 pieces Elk or Deer hair set just behind the eye and
clip the butts to protrude out over the eye of the hook. Wing length is
about 3/4 of middle wing. Here again we need the hair to lay with a
lower profile. Leave a space behind the eye of the hook for the hackle.
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| Fishing Tips |
| Drag is not a problem with this fly in fact its an enhancement.
Something that I do with this fly that I don't do with others, but
perhaps should, is to continue fishing the drift even after the fly has
drowned. By allowing the fly to complete the swing submerged, it becomes
a pupal emerger. Or hang it straight down stream and bounce/wake it on
the surface in a draging/dapping presentation. Cast it across, tighten
up on it and make it skate over the currents. Alter the drift with short
dead drifts and short skates. The important thing is to keep it looking
alive. |
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